Three Countries. Three Captials. Three Currencies.
Budapest - Vienna - Prague
If you only have 10-12 days and want to experience some beautiful places without too much travelling around then this might be your itinerary. You can of course add more time in one or all cities, but this will serve as a good foundation for your planning. As of 2020, Hungary is still using its own currency, the Hungarian Forint, as well as the Euro so until they discontinue the Forint I’ll keep the itinerary name as it is!
Budapest, Hungary – 3 days
Budapest is a hidden treasure in plain sight - many people you know have probably been there but don't always mention it, which is odd as it is an eye-hurtingly beautiful city. Sightseeing in the city will take 1-2 days depending on how many museums you want to go into and how many beautiful interiors you want to discover, but 3 days is an optimal amount of time in this beautiful city.
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If you only have one day to sightsee then consider a hop-on-hop-off bus tour as the city is spread out and has no actual “centre” as such but rather two sides, Buda and Pest, split by the River Danube
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Main sights: Castle District & Fisherman’s Bastion on Buda. On the Pest side: Andrassy (main boulevard, beautiful tree-lined street and shops), Heroes Square, Szechenyi Ter (pedestrian square with cafes, shops and strolling), St Stephen’s Basilica, Grand Market (closed Sundays), Chain Bridge (the pride of the city and a great walk from Pest to Buda), Hungarian Parliament building (the stunning building on the banks of the Danube that looks like a church but is home to the Hungarian government - note: to take a tour of the interior, and you should as it is even more impressive than the exterior, you will need to book tickets as far ahead as possible as it is the 10th most popular sight to visit in Europe -2018 and 2019 stats)
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Day Trips: If you add another day to Budapest, or you feel the need to explore outside the city, then half-day or day trips to villages and areas outside Budapest include to Szentendre - village of local artists and crafts as well as great food; Lake Balaton - largest lake in Central Europe and one of the major wine-producing regions in Hungary; Esztergom - take a river cruise to the original capital of Hungary, home to the Basilica which is the seat of the Primate of the Catholic Church in Hungary and on the Danube Bend with stunning views; Eger - a stunning town in the east of Hungary with cobbled laneways, beautiful buildings and pretty Old Town
Vienna, Austria – 3 days
This classically beautiful city needs a minimum of 3 days if you are going to fully immerse yourself in museums, music and cake. However, if you have been here before or don’t feel the need to see too many interiors, you may find you have time for a half-day trip somewhere as well, or you could reduce the time to 2 days and add Cesky Krumlov or more time in another city listed.
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Vienna can be seen through a mix of walking and driving/public transport so if you want to understand the interior of the Ringstrasse (Ring Road) which is the centre of Viennese history, then consider hiring a local guide. You could also take either the hop-on-hop-off bus and use this as a way to get to different sights, or the Tram (streetcar) that does the Ringstrasse loop or even the evening historic Tram Tour with full commentary.
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Main sights: Wiener Oper (Vienna Opera House – tours available or book ahead for shows, closed in August), Hofburg Palace (winter residence of the Habsburg Royal family, including interior museums), Kunsthistorisches Museum (Fine Arts), Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), Volksgarten (statue of Mozart and stunning Palm House), Burggarten (beautiful rose garden), Stadtpark (City Park with statue of Strauss II and peaceful pathways), Rathaus (Town Hall), Judenplatz (place of remembrance to the Jewish citizens and the old Synagogue), Schönbrunn Palace (the summer residence of the Habsburgs), St Stephen’s Cathedral, Belvedere (Klimt exhibit), Museums Quartier (an eclectic mix of exhibits), a café for Kaffee und Kuchen (Coffee & Cake) or strudel works too – there are many more sights but these are just the main ones, you could even theme your sightseeing on royals, music, important Austrians (Freud, Frankl, Hundertwasser…so many to choose from) or even parks!
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Day Trips: If you find yourself wanting to wander outside Vienna for a day trip, then consider Bratislava - capital of Slovakia and a 1hr15m hovercraft ride away along the Danube; Wachau Valley - another cruise on the Danube, this time in the opposite direction and to visit Melk and Dürnstein; Linz - the centre of the city and its history are worth a visit, and don’t forget Linzertorte cake; Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial - if you are interested in history and understanding more of the Holocaust then an organised tour to this sombre but important place should be something to consider
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic – 1 night
This picturesque town can be a challenge to get to – you’ll need a train and bus combination or a private car/driver hire) – but it is worth it for an overnight stay. Plan to arrive early afternoon and you can stroll the town then have sunset drinks before having the place almost all to yourself. The next morning you can get up early (if you are so inclined) and enjoy the morning light and quiet before continuing on to Prague. Again, bus will be your fastest method, unless you hire a car or a private driver.
Prague, Czech Republic – 3 days
This stunning capital needs no introduction, its beauty is well known and for good reason.
You will find that you walk a lot in Prague, which means you’ll need to stay hydrated so lucky there are many, many pubs to help you with that! Plus the walks reveal amazing viewpoints and hidden laneways that just add to your experience. Consider hiring a local guide for the Castle District and even the Old Town. If you are visiting the Jewish Quarter then audioguides are available for each of the Synagogues and the cemetery. Alternatively you can hire a local specialist guide for these sights.
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Main sights: Castle District & St Vitus Cathedral (allow a few hours inside the castle walls, even if you don’t go inside the museum areas you will find plenty to see, cafes for refreshments and a downhill walk – take a tram or taxi to the main entrance, don’t walk up! – with spectacular views over the city that will take your time and fill your camera memory card), Charles Bridge (best tip: walk across either at sunset from the Old Town to Mala Strana, at night around 10ish when the crowds have dispersed, or at sunrise for the most eye-hurting views towards the Old Town), Old Town (home to the Old Town Square, Astronomical Clock, Tyn Church, prints and Trdelnik ice cream), Josefov Jewish Quarter (on the Old Town side of the city, three Synagogues and the Jewish cemetery are a must to visit, closed Saturday), Mala Strana (the area below the castle district, old Prague and beautiful to wander through), Letna (park above the city with the best views along the River Vltava), Strahov (Monastery with the most beautiful Library, its own brewery and a viewpoint that will take your breath away), Church of the Infant Jesus (or its full name Church of Our Lady Victorious), cruise on the Vltava (the river that splits Prague, have a meal on board or just a cruise and see more of both sides of the city from the river).
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Day Trips: there are quite a few places within easy reach of Prague for a half or full day sightseeing such as Kutna Hora - often referred to as “the bone place” as the Ossuary there is an incredible sight, the village is also a stunning place to wander, have lunch and visit St Barbara’s church and/or the wine shop right next to it; Plzen - the birthplace of pilsner beer, hence the original name, this city is home to the king of Czech beers Pilsner Urquell, and also has a beautiful Old Town, cathedral and synagogue; Cesky Krumlov - if you are pressed for time and can’t add the overnight stop here suggested above, you can always do a full and long day trip to the town; Karlovy Vary - spa town with natural hot springs and a beautiful centre to explore; Terezín Concentration Camp Memorial - not uplifting but important to understand the history of Europe, this camp was used during the Nazi occupation to hold Jews and other prisoners before they were transported to Auschwitz; České Švýcarsko or Bohemian Switzerland National Park - still in the Czech Republic near the town of Dĕčin, this area gets its name from two artists who coined the term in the 18th Century as the terrain reminded them of their home in Switzerland. Great for hiking for 1-2 hours or up to 7 hours
But Wait, There's More!
You could, of course, put your thing down flip it and reverse it (credit: Missy Elliot!) to travel Prague-Vienna-Budapest.
Got a few extra days? Then you could also add Berlin to the mix, either after Prague (which is ideal) or instead of Budapest or Vienna if you only have limited time but prefer to visit Berlin. It’s worth knowing that the train journey from Budapest to Prague is around 6hours 30minutes and there are a selection of trains but not one every hour, so consider a sleeper train or just enjoy the train ride during the day. Driving would also work and would see you be able to visit Slovakia and the capital Bratislava on the way if you have a day and want to add a little something obscure but very cool to your trip.
Prague to Berlin – a relatively short train ride (or drive) between the two, but there are other places to visit in between, depending on your interests:
Dresden
You should really consider at least a day in Dresden, but an overnight stay would let you explore more of this interesting and historical city. There are museums galore, palaces, World War II history, a river to stroll next to and castles in the woods surrounding the city that all warrant additional time.
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Main Sights: Dresden Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady in the centre of the old town, all but destroyed in WWII but rebuilt and reconsecrated in 2005), Green Vault (Grünes Gewölbe, home to the largest treasury in Europe), Zwinger Palace (beautiful Baroque courtyard and pavilion that is also home to the Dresden Porcelain Museum/Dresdener Porzellansammlung, Old Masters Picture Gallery/ Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister and the Royal Cabinet of Mathematical & Physical Instruments/ Mathematisch-Physikalischer Salon), Semper Opera House(Semper Oper), March of the Saxon Dukes (Fürstenzug; stunning porcelain tiled mural on the outside of the Residenz in the old town), Brühl’s Terrace (the stunning walkway above the River Elbe just off the old town), Kunsthofpassage (in the Neustadt area is the Art Passage which is full of modern architecture, art installations and light projections)
Saxon Switzerland
If you have a car then this area of Germany (Sächsische Schweiz) is a beautiful national park full of hikes, castles, fortresses, rock climbs and breath-taking scenery. Together with the aforementioned Bohemian Switzerland, they form part of the Elbe valley and the border between Germany and Czech Republic runs through the valley.
Berlin
Where do I even start with one of the most exciting places in the world? There is something for everyone in this city - it vibrates on its own plain and makes you believe anything is possible. There is so much to see and do, so I'll just touch on the major items.
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Main sights: Brandenburg Gate (during The Division it was the gate to nowhere as it stood in the former East Berlin and the Berlin Wall ran in front of it so in the West all that was visible was the top half), Reichstag (the building that is now home to the German Parliament but stood burned-out and mainly disused since 1933, the rooftop restaurant gives great views with your meal), Berlin Wall (there are three major sections of the Wall still standing – Bernauerstrasse, Topography of Terror and East Side Gallery. If you want to see the Wall as it stood, then go to the Bernauerstrasse Memorial as this is the best example and most striking of how the city was divided), Museum Island (a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there are 5 museums including the Pergamon and the Neues/New Museum), Berlin TV Tower (the Fernsehturm or as I like to call it the Death Star! Visible from most points of the city, it has great views from the viewing area and a bar with cocktail glasses shaped like the tower, it is one of my favourite sights), Alexander Platz (Alexander Square or just Alex, the hub of the former East Berlin and home to the TV Tower. Also “Jason Bourne Square” as it featured at the end of the 2004 film The Bourne Supremacy), Holocaust Memorial (the full name is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and it is a striking and thought-provoking sculptural instalment), Kaufhaus des Westerns (KaDeWe is my other happy place in Berlin, to be specific the 6th floor is! Filled with department store goodies, it was a haven in the West during the Division but now has a remodelled champagne bar area, delicacies galore and almost everything you can think of), Bebelplatz Memorial (hidden out in the open, this memorial in the middle of the square is to the burning of books in 1933), Kaiserwilhelm Memorial Church (Kaiserwilhelm Gedächtniskirche - the “broken” building that is another symbol of the city as it was bombed in WWII and kept as a reminder to all of the futility of war), Tiergarten (the huge park in the centre of the city is the green lung of Berlin and full of walking and cycling paths, grassy picnic and sunbathing areas and even a beer garden or two!), Checkpoint Charlie (it’s on here because it’s known, but it’s no longer looking the way it did during the Division. The panels around the crossing with images are a great way to see what it looked like, but the museum at the sight isn’t necessary unless you have seen everything else in the city, and if you want to see the original checkpoint building it is at the Allied Museum).
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